Centella asiatica (cica): the K-Beauty ingredient with the most science behind it
Complete guide to centella asiatica in skincare. Active compounds, real clinical evidence, best Korean cica products and how to use it in your routine.
If snail mucin is K-Beauty's viral ingredient, centella asiatica is the one with substance. While mucin conquered TikTok, centella has spent decades in the dermatological scientific literature with studies that most cosmetic actives would envy.
Centella asiatica (also called gotu kola, tiger grass or pegaga) is a perennial herbaceous plant from the Apiaceae family, native to Southeast Asia. In traditional Chinese medicine, Ayurveda and the European pharmacopoeia it has been used for centuries for wound healing. But what makes it interesting for modern skincare isn't tradition: it's the data.
Active compounds: the four triterpenoids
Centella is not a simple ingredient. It contains a group of pentacyclic triterpenoids responsible for its biological activity:
Asiaticoside
The most studied compound. It converts to asiatic acid after skin absorption. Stimulates type I collagen synthesis in fibroblasts. The main compound responsible for wound-healing activity.
Madecassoside
Potent anti-inflammatory. Inhibits the NF-κB pathway, reducing production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6). The key compound for reactive and post-procedure skin.
Asiatic acid
Stimulates collagen production and fibroblast proliferation. Acts directly without needing conversion. Has additional antioxidant activity.
Madecassic acid
Promotes type III collagen synthesis and skin barrier repair. Contributes to the tissue remodeling phase.
The combination of these four compounds is marketed as TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) or Centella Asiatica Triterpenic Fraction (CATTF), and is the form with the most clinical evidence.
Clinical evidence
Healing and repair
Bylka et al., 2014 (Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii): Comprehensive review of centella's dermatological activity. Demonstrated that TECA accelerates wound healing by stimulating type I collagen synthesis (up to +300%) and by increasing tensile strength of newly formed skin. Mechanism: activation of the TGF-β/Smad pathway in fibroblasts.
Widgerow et al., 2015 (Aesthetic Plastic Surgery): Centella reduced hypertrophic scar formation post-surgery compared to placebo. The triterpenoids modulate fibroblast activity to prevent the overproduction of disordered collagen that forms keloids.
Anti-inflammatory
George et al., 2009 (Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences): Centella demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity comparable to indomethacin (NSAID) in experimental models. Madecassoside inhibited the NF-κB pathway and reduced COX-2 expression.
Skin barrier
Ratz-Lyko et al., 2016 (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology): Centella extract improved barrier function (measured as transepidermal water loss, TEWL) and increased ceramide production in the stratum corneum.
Anti-aging
Hashim et al., 2011 (Molecules): Asiaticoside and asiatic acid stimulated type I collagen production in human fibroblasts in a dose-dependent manner. The effect was comparable to retinol at equivalent concentrations, without the associated irritation.
“Centella asiatica is one of the few botanical extracts with a clear and reproducible mechanism of action at the molecular level. The triterpenoids act on well-defined pathways (TGF-β, NF-κB) that explain their clinical effects. It is not generic phytotherapy: it is documented plant pharmacology.”
"Cica": the K-Beauty term
In K-Beauty, centella is known as cica (abbreviation of cicatrization). The explosion of Korean "cica" products began in 2018 and consolidated as one of the largest categories in Asian skincare.
The difference between "centella" and "cica" is marketing, not formulation. Both refer to Centella asiatica or its extracts. But "cica" implies a Korean formulation optimized to soothe, repair and protect the skin barrier.
Why Korea adopted centella
Korean skin tends to be reactive. The combination of high urban pollution (Seoul), extreme temperature changes (dry winter, humid summer) and intensive use of actives (retinol, AHA, vitamin C) creates demand for soothing ingredients. Centella fills that need with real evidence.
Best Korean cica products
COSRX Pure Fit Cica Serum
Serum with 76% centella asiatica extract + hyaluronic acid. Light texture, fast absorption. Soothes reactive skin and reduces redness. No fragrances, no essential oils.
COSRX Centella Blemish Cream
Centella spot cream with zinc. Formulated to apply on blemishes, localized redness or post-acne areas. Soothes, protects and aids healing without clogging pores.
Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule
100% centella asiatica extract from Madagascar (the variety with the highest triterpenoid concentration). No added water, no additives. The purity standard in cica ampoules.
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Cream
The most recognized cica cream in premium K-Beauty. Color-correcting (green that neutralizes redness), SPF 30, centella + madecassoside. Korean luxury in a functional format.
How to use it in your routine
Position in the routine
- Cleansing
- Toner (you can use cica toner here)
- Cica serum/ampoule ← here as treatment
- Actives (retinol, vitamin C)
- Moisturizer (can be cica cream)
- SPF
When to use centella
- After retinol: centella soothes retinol irritation. Apply cica serum the morning after a retinol night
- Post-procedure: after microneedling, chemical peel or laser. Centella accelerates barrier recovery
- Chronic reactive skin: as a daily base for skin with rosacea, perioral dermatitis or general sensitivity
- Post-acne: on recent marks and scars to accelerate remodeling
Compatibility
- Retinol: excellent synergy (centella soothes, retinol stimulates)
- Niacinamide: compatible, ideal combination for oily skin with redness
- Vitamin C: compatible, apply vitamin C first
- AHA/BHA: compatible, centella soothes post-exfoliation
- Snail mucin: compatible, both hydrate and repair
- Hyaluronic acid: compatible, HA hydrates + centella repairs
No known incompatibilities. Centella is one of the most versatile and safe actives.
Centella vs other soothing ingredients
| Ingredient | Mechanism | Evidence | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Centella asiatica | Triterpenoids: collagen + anti-inflammatory + barrier | Strong (multiple RCTs) | Repair, healing, reactive skin |
| Allantoin | Cell proliferation | Moderate | Healing, sensitive skin |
| Panthenol (B5) | Hydration + barrier repair | Moderate-strong | Dehydrated skin, post-procedure |
| Bisabolol | Anti-inflammatory (inhibits 5-LOX) | Moderate | Eczema, dermatitis |
| Calendula | Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial | Moderate | Irritated skin, babies |
| Colloidal oatmeal | Anti-inflammatory, antipruritic | Strong | Eczema, itching, atopic dermatitis |
Centella has the advantage of combining active repair (collagen) with calming (anti-inflammatory). Most soothing ingredients only do one of the two.
The origin question: Madagascar vs others
Centella asiatica from Madagascar is considered to have the highest concentration of active triterpenoids. The reason: environmental stress conditions (altitude, volcanic soil, intense UV radiation) cause the plant to produce more secondary metabolites as a defense mechanism.
Skin1004 popularized the concept of "Madagascar centella" as a quality indicator. Not all centella extracts are equal: the concentration of asiaticoside and madecassoside varies between 1% and 8% depending on origin and extraction method.
Oral use: gotu kola
Centella is also taken as an oral supplement (gotu kola) with evidence for:
- Chronic venous insufficiency: oral TECA improved symptoms of leg heaviness and edema in a 2001 RCT
- Anxiety: preliminary studies show mild anxiolytic effect
- Cognition: used in Ayurvedic medicine as a nootropic. modern evidence is limited but promising
Typical oral dose is 500-1000mg of standardized extract per day. Topical and oral use are complementary.
Best K-Beauty cica products
| Precio |
“Centella asiatica is the soothing-repairing ingredient with the most evidence in K-Beauty. It is not a transformation active like retinol, but one of protection and repair. If you use potent actives (retinol, AHA, vitamin C), centella is the perfect companion to keep your barrier intact. Skin1004 Madagascar Ampoule ($20, 100% extract) is the purest option. COSRX Cica Serum ($18) is the most versatile for daily use.”
Buy in the US
Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule (55ml)Amazon COSRX Pure Fit Cica SerumAmazon COSRX Centella Blemish CreamAmazonLas fuentes incluyen instituciones médicas, revistas peer-reviewed y organizaciones de investigación. Aevum no ofrece consejo médico.
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